History & Origins
The Hartmann family is considered one of the pioneers of the specialty coffee production in Panama. Their story starts with Alois Strasil Hartmann, born in 1891 in the region of Moravia, then Austrian-Hungarian empire (you might understand our personal affinity to this finca), laid the ground work for Finca Hartmann, which was founded by his son, Ratibor Hartmann, in 1940.
Alois came to Panama in 1912 in search of adventure, which made him follow the telegraph lines all the way to Volcan instead of staying in Panama City. He was the first resident of Volcan, where he settled, married Susana Troetsch, daughter of a German immigrant and took care of 2000 cattle and 1000 donkeys for a certain Mr. Landberg.
For the coffee farm he bought 500has from the Panamanian government and gave 100has of this land with virgin forest to one of his sons, Ratibor Hartmann, who was working with the US army in Panama City and turned that land into the Finca Hartmann coffee farm. In 1966 Ratibor married Dinorah Sandí from Costa Rica. Together they raised 5 children, Ratibor Jr, Allan, Alexander, Aliss and Kelly.
Today Finca Hartmann is a family enterprise – each member of the family is passionately involved in the management and performs a different function in the growth, production and tourism of the farm. Coffee for them is a way of living, their culture, their family – a lot of work, but also a lot of love.
The estate has achieved remarkable recognition in recent years. At the 2022 Best of Panama (BOP) Geisha from Finca Guarumo placed 1st in the Natural Geisha category, scoring an astonishing 96.5 out of 100. At the BOP auction, the 100lb. lot (45 kilos) sold for a staggering $200,000 (USD).
Terroir & Growing Conditions
The finca consists of 2 farms – Santa Clara Finca Hartmann and Ojo de Agua, located between 1.300 and 2.000 mts above sea level with nearly 100has of forest reserves bordering on the Parque Nacional de La Amistad. The coffee is grown under the shade of native rainforest trees that have been there for many years.
Its diverse microclimates, volcanic soil, and high altitudes in regions like Boquete, Volcán, and Chiriquí Highlands create the perfect conditions for producing exceptional, complex coffee.
From the family compound, that includes homes, offices, a processing mill, and a few guest cabins, heading further up the mountain you’ll find: Santa Cara, Finca Momoto (Aliss Hartmann’s farm), Campamento, Chicho Gallo (named after Ratibor Sr – his nickname was ‘Chicho’), Oja da Aqua, Enders, Rocky Mountain (Allan Hartmann’s farm), Manantial, and Finca Guarumo (Allan and Ratibor Jr’s farm).
On the Santa Clara section of Finca Hartmann, is where you’ll find the volume coffees that we purchase; Caturra, Catuai, Pacamara, and Maragogipe. These varieties perform well grown at the slightly lower elevations of Santa Clara, between 1,300 – 1,500 masl.
The land is famous for bird watching, with around 300 species recorded. It’s no surprise then that their coffee carries the Bird Friendly certification.
The Hartmanns try not to cut trees, they replant native trees and plantains to maintain the natural cycle and a healthy soil and fauna. “From the beginning, since my parents started with this farm, they have worked the land with a lot of love and respect.
Processing & Production
The Hartmann family operates multiple processing methods across their various farm sections. He is the manager of processing at the family farm and responsible for Finca Hartmann’s processing plants. Their natural processing approach is meticulous: The natural process is started on African raised beds, after picking at the ripest stage. The Hartmanns are very careful that not one drop of water touches the cherries between harvesting and them going on the beds, since water would losen the mucilage from the skin and the beans and then the sugars would not be transferred as well into the beans, as if they are kept dry.
This fine competition microlot from Rocky Mountain is composed of pure Green Tip Geisha varietal only and named “Black Sheep” , processed exclusively by Allan Hartmann. Fascinated by effects that controlled fermentation has on flavour, during processing the cherries were fermented with wild yeasts and organisms typical of the local landscape. The coffee cherries are placed immediately after they have been picked and then dried on an African bed for 12-14 days before reaching 14% moisture. Then it was dried in drying silos for another 6-8 days to reach 11.5% humidity. From there, the parchment was taken to the warehouse to rest for 3 months before the hulling process.
Allan Hartmann, who oversees processing of all of the Hartmann family’s coffees, is understandably secretive of the exact techniques used to process such a spectacular coffee – but, he was willing to share the following with us; “the Best of Panama winning Geisha from Finca Guarumo was processed as a classic natural, with prolonged drying at low temperatures, for about 20 days, in a dark room”.
Cup Profile & Tasting Notes
Finca Hartmann produces coffees with distinct profiles depending on variety and processing method. Their Geisha lots consistently deliver exceptional complexity. Competition Series Geisha Microlot Honey Process QUALITY SCORE: 92.00 Cup Notes Jasmine / Bergamot / Pineapple / Honey / Orange / Vanilla Suggested for espresso and filter
Competition Series Pacamara microlot QUALITY SCORE: 90.50 Cup Notes Papaya / Blueberry / Raisin / Dried Plum Suggested for espresso and filter
Natural processed lots showcase intense fruit-forward characteristics. Thanks to the natural processing this coffee has got a super sweet, intense spicy and herbal flavours with a touch of “funky” notes.
It features notes of Concord grape, lilac sweetness and florals, and a finish of chocolate syrup.
In the cup: Flawless tasting notes of strawberry, lychee and cacao.
Spectacular array of aroma and flavor notes, shifting with little revelations clear to the bottom of the cup. The estate’s washed Geshas maintain the variety’s signature elegance: There is still a reason why washed Geshas from Panama are still regarded as some of the best in the world and the Hartmann team definitely delivered on that this year. Their diverse cultivar selection allows for varied cup expressions, from the bright florals of Geisha to the bold, fruit-forward naturals of their Ethiopian heirloom varieties.